Jim Wilson/The New York Times
By STEPHANIE STROM Published: August 18, 2012 482 Comments
Don Barrett, a Mississippi lawyer, took in hundreds of millions of
dollars a decade ago after suing Big Tobacco and winning record
settlements from R. J. Reynolds, Philip Morris and other cigarette
makers. So did Walter Umphrey, Dewitt M. Lovelace and Stuart and Carol
Nelkin.
Ever since, the lawyers have been searching for big paydays in business,
scoring more modest wins against car companies, drug makers, brokerage
firms and insurers. Now, they have found the next target: food
manufacturers.
More than a dozen lawyers who took on the tobacco companies have filed
25 cases against industry players like ConAgra Foods, PepsiCo, Heinz,
General Mills and Chobani that stock pantry shelves and refrigerators
across America.
The suits, filed over the last four months, assert that food makers are
misleading consumers and violating federal regulations by wrongly
labeling products and ingredients. While there has been a barrage of
litigation against the industry in recent years, the tobacco lawyers are
moving particularly aggressively. They are asking a federal court in
California to halt ConAgra’s sales of Pam cooking spray, Swiss Miss
cocoa products and some Hunt’s canned tomatoes.
“It’s a crime — and that makes it a crime to sell it,” said Mr. Barrett,
citing what he contends is the mislabeling of those products. “That
means these products should be taken off the shelves.”
The food companies counter that the suits are without merit, another
example of litigation gone wild and driven largely by the lawyers’
financial motivations. Mr. Barrett said his group could seek damages
amounting to four years of sales of mislabeled products — which could
total many billions of dollars.
“It’s difficult to take some of these claims seriously, for instance,
that a consumer was deceived into believing that a chocolate hazelnut
spread for bread was healthy for children,” said Kristen E. Polovoy, an
industry lawyer at Montgomery McCracken, referring to a lawsuit that two
mothers brought against the maker of Nutella. “I think the courts are
starting to look at the implausibility of some of these suits.”
A federal judge in California in 2009 dismissed a case against PepsiCo,
which accused the company of false advertising because Cap’n Crunch’s
Crunch Berries cereal does not contain real berries. He ruled that “a
reasonable consumer would not be deceived into believing that the
product in the instant case contained a fruit that does not exist.”
While the lawyers are being questioned about their motives, they are not alone in pursuing the food industry.
In recent weeks, the Center for Science in the Public Interest has sued
General Mills and McNeil Nutritionals over their claims on Nature Valley
and Splenda Essentials products, and warned Welch’s it would sue unless
the company changed the wording on its juice and fruit snacks. The
Federal Trade Commission won settlements from companies like Dannon and
Pom Wonderful for claims about their products’ health benefits. And
PepsiCo and Coca-Cola face lawsuits over claims that their orange juice
products are “100% natural.”
The latest playbook — like the one that paid off in the wave of tobacco
litigation — could prove potent, as the food companies’ own lawyers have
warned.
Other plaintiffs’ lawyers have largely taken aim at food products
marketed as “healthy” or “natural,” subjective claims that can be easily
disputed by expert witnesses. Unlike foods labeled “organic,” there are
no federal standards for foods that are called “healthy” or “natural.”
The new batch of litigation argues that food companies are violating
specific rules about ingredients and labels. Mr. Barrett’s group, for
example, has brought a case against Chobani, the Greek yogurt maker, for
listing “evaporated cane juice,” as an ingredient in its
pomegranate-flavored yogurt. The Food and Drug Administration has
repeatedly warned companies not to use the term because it is “false and
misleading,” according to the suit.
“If you’re going to put sugar in your yogurt, why not just say it’s
sugar?” said Pierce Gore, a lawyer affiliated with Mr. Barrett’s group.
Food companies dispute the accusations, defending their packaging and marketing. Nicki Briggs, a spokeswoman for Chobani, said the lawsuit was “frivolous” and “without merit.”
Food companies dispute the accusations, defending their packaging and marketing. Nicki Briggs, a spokeswoman for Chobani, said the lawsuit was “frivolous” and “without merit.”
Even so, such cases are raising concerns within the industry.
At a recent food and beverage conference attended by more than 100
lawyers, Madeleine M. McDonough, a lawyer at Shook, Hardy & Bacon
who is co-chairwoman of the agribusiness and food safety
practice, warned in a session on fraud litigation that it was
imperative for companies to comply with federal regulation. “Otherwise,
we are dead in the water,” she said, according to two lawyers present,
including J. Price Coleman, who is working with Mr. Barrett’s group.
If the lawsuits prove successful, the liability could be sizable. The
lawyers are looking to base damages on products’ sales. While companies
do not typically break out figures for individual items, Chobani’s
revenues are expected to total $1.5 billion this year. The lawsuit filed
by Mr. Barrett cites 18 flavors of yogurt, more than half its line.
The lawyers are being selective about where these suits are filed. Most
have been filed in California, where consumer protection laws tend to
favor plaintiffs. Food companies are already fighting a legal battle
there, spending tens of millions of dollars to stop a ballot initiative
that would require them to specify genetically modified ingredients.
The lawyers who took on Big Tobacco decided the time was ripe to go
after Big Food. Consumers are increasingly conscious of their eating
habits as rates of heart disease, Type 2 diabetes, obesity
and other health problems rise. State and local governments are also
becoming alarmed at the escalating costs of caring for people with those
diseases and are putting pressure on food companies.
“People want to put good, healthy, nutritious food in their bodies,”
said Keith M. Fleischman, a former federal and state prosecutor who is
now working with the tobacco lawyers group. “They are very aware of
what’s on labels.”
Plaintiffs’ lawyers realize that critics may counter that their lawsuits do not have real victims.
Mr. Barrett fought tobacco cases for years on behalf of smokers dying of cancer — and lost because juries agreed with the tobacco companies that smoking
was a personal choice. Not until he and Richard Scruggs sued on behalf
of states, which had spent hundreds of millions of dollars caring for
sick smokers, did they win their record settlement.
“Food companies will argue that these are harmless crimes — the tobacco
companies said the same thing,” Mr. Barrett said. “But to diabetics and
some other people, sugar is just as deadly as poison.”
Consumers like Christine Sturges, one of the plaintiffs in a suit against ConAgra, has gluten allergies and reads labels vigilantly.
When she heard about a lawsuit involving the Pam cooking spray, she took
a closer look. “There was nothing scary on it, just this innocuous
word, ‘propellant,’ ” said Ms. Sturges, a hairdresser from Los Gatos,
Calif.
After digging deeper, she learned that “propellant” included petroleum gas, propane and butane. “I’d been spraying that on muffin tins to make muffins for my grandchildren — oh my God!”
The only way Ms. Sturges could have known what the “propellant” consists
of was to have read the materials data safety sheet that ConAgra files
separately with the government, according to Mr. Gore.
The suit also claims, among other things, that Swiss Miss and Hunt’s
labels bear improper claims about nutrients and antioxidant properties.
“We researched regulations and labels for two years before filing our
first case, and our cases don’t remotely resemble the Cap’n Crunch’s
Crunch Berries case,” Mr. Gore said. “Frankly, that one made me laugh.”
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